My Second Print Failed

David_BarryDavid_Barry Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
I printed the Pre-scliced Rook 3dFacture provided Rook 50% using Position 3.
What should I do to fix the print.


image
Hudson Valley, NY Draken Ultimate Package Arrived 7-6-2015

Comments

  • kniborknibor Member, Backers
    I can't see what exacltly happend... Make sure your printing bed is aligned right and at the height of the VAT. If it has come lose you might to up the bottom exposure time and layers, if the material didn't stick well maybe the exposure times are to short ;)!
  • sabotagesabotage Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    @David_Barry, I assume you uploaded it to CWH and printed from there, not from CW, correct?

    If that was the case, the embedded .gcode file has the following settings:
    ;(****Build and Slicing Parameters****)
    ;(Pix per mm X = 23.23330 px/mm )
    ;(Pix per mm Y = 23.25581 px/mm )
    ;(X Resolution = 1920 )
    ;(Y Resolution = 1080 )
    ;(Layer Thickness = 0.05000 mm )
    ;(Layer Time = 3000 ms )
    ;(Render Outlines = False
    ;(Outline Width Inset = 2
    ;(Outline Width Outset = 0
    ;(Bottom Layers Time = 7000 ms )
    ;(Number of Bottom Layers = 4 )
    ;(Blanking Layer Time = 3400 ms )
    ;(Build Direction = Bottom_Up)
    ;(Lift Distance = 1 mm )
    ;(Slide/Tilt Value = 0)
    ;(Anti Aliasing = True)
    ;(Use Mainlift GCode Tab = False)
    ;(Anti Aliasing Value = 1.5 )
    ;(Z Lift Feed Rate = 50.00000 mm/s )
    ;(Z Bottom Lift Feed Rate = 25.00000 mm/s )
    ;(Z Lift Retract Rate = 100.00000 mm/s )
    ;(Flip X = False)
    ;(Flip Y = True)
    ;Number of Slices = 571
    ;(****Machine Configuration ******)
    ;(Platform X Size = 82.64mm )
    ;(Platform Y Size = 46.44mm )
    ;(Platform Z Size = 200mm )
    ;(Max X Feedrate = 100mm/s )
    ;(Max Y Feedrate = 100mm/s )
    ;(Max Z Feedrate = 100mm/s )
    ;(Machine Type = UV_DLP)
    A couple of things I notice, the base layer time is well below the 22s that the default slicing profile we got.  Also, the platform sizes look wrong for the 3rd projector position.

    Finally, I have discovered a bit of a wobble in the joint between the build plate and the ball joint stem.  I have since shimmed that joint so it does not wobble anymore.  Take a look at yours and make sure there is no play there. 
    Shane...
    imageBacker(Ultimate Package - delivered on July 1, 2015)
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    sabotage said:

    Finally, I have discovered a bit of a wobble in the joint between the build plate and the ball joint stem.  I have since shimmed that joint so it does not wobble anymore.  Take a look at yours and make sure there is no play there. 
    I wondered about that. I see a gap between the ball joint stem and the plate. It appears to be solid, but I worry it will work loose as well.

    Ron
  • sabotagesabotage Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited July 2015
    In my case it did. I removed all the screws from the build plate to see if I could tighten up the bolt holding it to the ball joint, but the gap remained, as did the wobble. That's when I made up a shim from some scrap aluminum 'L' bar I had in my shop. It's a pretty hackish job, but seems to be working for now.
    Shane...
    imageBacker(Ultimate Package - delivered on July 1, 2015)
  • sabotagesabotage Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I just looked at the 2nd, unused build plate, and it definately has a slight wobble even though it's never been used. I'm going to make up another shim before I even use that one.
    Shane...
    imageBacker(Ultimate Package - delivered on July 1, 2015)
  • sabotagesabotage Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here are some pictures of my hack job of a shim for the build plate

    image

    image

    image
    Shane...
    imageBacker(Ultimate Package - delivered on July 1, 2015)
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I wonder what is wrong. Is the threaded post that the ball joint stem connects with too long? You'd probably have to take the sacrificial plate off first, then see how it is attached. 

    I wonder if you could dab some epoxy in the gap, assuming you can get it straight enough?
    Ron
  • David_BarryDavid_Barry Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited July 2015
    I think the problem is the the bolt holding on the build plate is too long the bolt pictured below. The screw is to tight to use a screw driver to losten i have to get to my sockets after work. We might just need to gring off a few mm off end of screw to get it thight.

    image
    Hudson Valley, NY Draken Ultimate Package Arrived 7-6-2015
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Okay, update time.

    My second build plate had this dreaded wobble.

    Time to take it apart and see what is going on (lots of tinkering, tools flying, harsh language being used, eureka!). *-:)

    There are a couple of things I found to be wrong or off with the design or manufacturing after I went through this exercise.

    1. The ball head stem has these two 'prongs' that are conical cut where the screw enters the stem. In the top of the base plate, there are two slots cut out with a mill or dremel that the prongs are supposed to sit into. imageThey are not cut deep enough into the plate to allow the flat section below the prongs to sit flush with the top of the base plate. Using my dremel/micromotor, I cut out the previously carved areas all the way through the plate to allow the prongs to sit properly and the stem to sit flush on the plate.
    2. The conical cut of the prongs and screw hole interfere with the existing recessed cut of the base plate, preventing the countersunk screw from bring flush to the base plate. I first ground down the tops of the prongs so they were no longer interfereing with the recessed cut in the plate. It still did not tighten down. The conical section of the prongs prevented the countersunk screw from going further. I cut out the conical section on the prongs so instead of it looking like a V, it now looks like a U. That allowed me to tighten the screw all the way into the countersink and draw the stem down on the build plate.
    I have some photos, so I will try to post them. They are not the best since I didn't take them as I was going and it was mostly after the fact.

    On another note, I've noticed that the sacrificial plate on my first build plate is not planar. If I take a metal straight edge from my carpenter's square and run it down the long side across, I see all sorts of hills and valleys. My second build plate runs true, thank goodness.

    Those types of problems with the surface can make it difficult to bind the resin to the build plate, so 3DFacture needs to hold their manufacturers (and themselves) to tight tolerances and a high standard if possible.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here are my build plate mod photos. Not the best, but it might help you visualize what I did.


    Ron
  • David_BarryDavid_Barry Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I found the problem with the tightness of the build plate. I am posting here before posting in forums.

    First you counter sunk the hole in the build plate so the screw would be flush.
    Then you cut a keyway into the plate to orient the Ball joint.
    Problem
    is now the Taper on the Screw reached the threads on the ball joint and
    you can't tighten the screw so the build plate will be secure.

    I took a file to the first few Screw threads to give the tapered screw more room. Problem fixed.


    image
    This image has been resized to fit in the page. Click to enlarge.



    image
    Hudson Valley, NY Draken Ultimate Package Arrived 7-6-2015
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Do you still have the gap between the stem and the build plate?

    Your mod is significantly less steps than mine. Glad you were able to get it fixed and hopefully 3DFacture will look at the assembly of the build plate a little closer going forward.
    Ron
  • Andrew_3DfactureAndrew_3Dfacture Member, Moderator, Backers
    We decide to make a thin steel disk to add in between the ball joint and the plate so that the screw could be tightened. Will post the results later.
  • kbvprokbvpro Member, Backers
    what material is the build plate? the problem with the design is that there is a screw. the build plate should be flat with no hole and the ball join should have a screw build into it. ball joint should be screw into the build plate.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    The build plate is made from two sheets of aluminum that are held together with countersunk screws around the perimeter.

    You would have to have a machined build plate that has the threaded post attached to it for the ball joint. That would skyrocket the price of the build plate.

    The mechanism they are using is not too bad, they just didn't take into account all aspects of the attachment. I am more concerned about the flatness of the thinner build plate surface because on one of my build plates, there were gaps when I ran a straight edge over the surface of the build plate. You can bend the plate yourself, but it would be better if it came from the manufacturer flat.
    Ron
  • Andrew_3DfactureAndrew_3Dfacture Member, Moderator, Backers
    We manufactured a thin steel disk and added it in between the ball joint and the plate.  The ball joint and plate are tight now. Will ship you that thin steel disk together with the new linear stage when it is ready in week of Aug. 24th.
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