What are you printing? February 2016

rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
It's been kind of quiet here on the forums, so I wonder what everyone is up to!

I want to try a new topic that will showcase what everyone has been working on with their Draken printer, so if you have any prints you have made for the month of February, please post them in this topic to share with everyone!


Ron

Comments

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here is a ring I am working on for a customer of mine. Printed with both B9 Red/Cherry mix and B9 Yellow castable resins:

    image

    image

    Cast ring from the B9 Yellow in Sterling Silver:

    image


    Ron
  • sjensensjensen Member, Backers
    edited February 2016
    This is the head for a trophy I'm working on. Printed with deep black, 0.025mm layers, 3200 sec exposure time, slot 3.
    It's pretty big and with supports almost fill the available build volume. After a few problems initially I'm happy to be printing succesfully! I also don't feel like these photo's do the print quality justice, it's like the camera plays up the lines and dust/hair.

    imageimage

    image
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited February 2016
    Nice print @sjensen! The camera shows all the blemishes that my now mediocre eyesight can't see, including defects, build lines, hair, dust, etc... I usually go into Photoshop Elements can clean up what I can before I share it. ;-)
    Ron
  • ThijsThijs Member, Backers
    Cool! I was also wondering what everybody is working on :) I hope we get to see some more stuff.
    Here is what I'm working on, I'm designing jewelry but unfortunately I have issues with my printer which causes horizontal lines in the print. This means I can't do anything with too much strict detail in it because I have to sand those lines down!

    On the left the print (FunToDo castable);in the middle the silver casting;on the right the waxmodel):
    image

    Here is the ring but with 22 carat goldplating:

    imageimageimage

    These guys are for sale so if you are interested send me a message!
  • ThijsThijs Member, Backers
    Oh btw, I decided to not directly cast the FTD resin, I'm really not up for more of these trail and error things so I decided to just make a mold out of it; hence the waxmodel :).
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I was wondering if you tried to cast it directly @Thijs. If you want and have a test print, you can send it to me and I will give it a try when I have some down time.

    Very cool ring! How much metal do you need to cast one of those? Looks pretty heavy.
    Ron
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers
    I've been pretty busy making scale model bits and pieces.  Mostly concentrating on various wheels and tires.


    All these parts were printed on my Draken:

    Here are completed pieces cast from urethane rubber and resin:

    Everything is printed in slot 3 (50 microns XY) with 30 micron slices.  FTD Deep Black with extra pigment; slow peel; supports are made in the B9Creations software and exported for use in CW.    
  • bryanbryan Member, Backers
    @Joseph_Osborn, what do you think of the flexible resins for tires?
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  • ThijsThijs Member, Backers
    edited February 2016
    @rkundia I haven't tried it, this ring weighs 34 grams but you get used to it surprisingly fast
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers
    bryan said:

    Joseph_Osborn
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    Joseph_Osborn
    bryan said:

    @Joseph_Osborn, what do you think of the flexible resins for tires?

    Joseph_Osborn
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    Joseph_Osborn
    I use urethane rubber from Smooth-On for scale model tires.  My customers love having flexible tire castings, but there are a few drawbacks, like the very long demold time.  I also cast some tires in standard hard resin.  The biggest advantage for me with casting in flexible rubber is that the silicone molds last much, much longer.  
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers
    Sorry @bryan I only use FTD Deep Black. I'm not interested in using any king of flexible uv resin in my printer.
  • bryanbryan Member, Backers
    Ok, that's what I was wondering. What's the reason . . . are there any particular downsides you're avoiding, or is it the cost?
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers
    bryan said:

    Ok, that's what I was wondering. What's the reason . . . are there any particular downsides you're avoiding, or is it the cost?

    With what I'm doing I just don't have any requirement for it.  
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    edited February 2016
    So we have been really playing around with the machine now its all functioning properly. We have fun to do castable and b9 cherry. We have got the fun to do printing every time but certain things such as rings with grains for the stones are coming out slightly 'muddy' and the detail isn't quite there. We have a 3d model of a human skull which we have been practicing with which we can print out every time in fun to do and the results are good. Reading up about the b9 cherry:red got us thinking about if we was to mix the fun to do and cherry with a ratio of 2:1 the same as b9 red:cherry. And well it worked perfectly at 10 seconds for 2 base layers and 4 seconds a layer for the rest. We are very happy because the B9 cherry never worked and adding the 2 parts of fun to do got rid of the muddy results we had with just pure fun to do. We have also been using the stepped G-Code that @rkundla kindly uploaded. We will be printing some more models this week so see if the results are consistent with our new mixture! (the darker skulls are the b9 cherry and funtodo mix)
    imageimageimageimage
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Great results @LukeGoldsmith

    Curing pure B9 Cherry is a task for any printer that does not shoot high intensity UV light and the Acer H6510BD, while capable of outputting UV without modification, isn't up to the task. You need those solids in the Cherry however to really resolve that detail without over curing. Mixing the thinner Red or FTD Castable makes Cherry a little more friendly to the Draken and even with the B9 yellow being a easier resin to cast (supposedly), I still go back to the B9 mix in order to get consistent printing results.

    The big test will be casting the B9/FTD mix to see how well it burns out. ;-)

    Keep us updated and glad that everything is up and running!
    Ron
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    We are finding that what we print keeps coming out wider than the STL. file the height is fine on the print its just the width, we have spoken to someone who suggested that possibly when the model is sliced at 0.050mm the z-lift each time for each layer may be slightly out say 0.060, does any one know how to check this in creation workshop? thanks
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    @LukeGoldsmith - this all depends on how your are orienting your model. The Z axis cannot be changed. Between the motor step increments and the screw thread pitch, the math to calculate distance will have some sort of rounding error if it isn't multiples of those two distances. From earlier discussions I believe that our setup is geared more towards 25, 50, 100 micron layer thickness with minimal if any rounding error.

    If your X and/or Y are not matching, then you can use the "Adjust" button located in the "Machine Config" tab on the Configure->Configure Machine page. You print an object like a cube with known dimensions, measure it with calipers and tell it what it should be and what it is. It will rescale the workspace based on the resolution of the projector. Reprint the object and remeasure. You should be pretty close. Note that this can be affected by the exposure settings and the type of resin, so you should make a backup copy of your machine config before changing it around. Also, you have to be careful if you try to get adjustment crazy, you will knock the build size out of whack (has happened to a few people here on the forum) and going back to the original file helps reset everything.


    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here is another ring test print for one of my potential customers.

    Size 3-1/4 ring with a round bezel for a 7.5mm stone.

    imageimage


    Ron
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    It really weird certain parts are square and the shank of the ring we printed is out of shape and we have tried printing it different ways on the plate...imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimage
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Is the thickness of the shank at the sides the right dimensions? If one of your X or Y axis was off, it won't be correct since it affects all aspects of the print.

    Maybe it is the way you are supporting it? I do notice some flex depending on what resin you use and it can squish things. If you clip those internal supports, does the ring snap back into shape? It looks like those supports are pulling down on the ring.


    Ron
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    The sides are slightly thicker than the bottom of the shank but it should be square all the way round. If we take out the middle supports its the same and if we print it without the supports its the same, we will try the cube print like you said..
    This is what our config looks like, so what you are saying is.. print a cube and then check the dimensions and adjust the x and y shown in the image below to adjust it?image
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    So we have just printed a 6mm cube, the height is correct but the width and length is too big so what should we be adjusting in the machine config?
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    @LukeGoldsmith that is the correct screen.

    I'd suggest using this one, it is easy to tell which dimension is which and doesn't require any base to print successfully.

    Ron
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers

    So we have just printed a 6mm cube, the height is correct but the width and length is too big so what should we be adjusting in the machine config?

    In that "build size calibration" window, enter your cube dimensions on the left (6mm in your case) and enter the actual measured dimensions of your cube on the right. If your X and Y measurements are different, make sure you put the correct numbers in the correct boxes. Print the cube again and the measurements should be correct.
  • LukeGoldsmithLukeGoldsmith Member, Backers
    Thanks for your @rkundla and @Joseph_Osborn help will try that tomorrow hopefully this is the last of our problems as we are getting detailed prints out now it was just the dimensions were off.
This discussion has been closed.