MakerJuice WaxCast

rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
edited May 2016 in General Discussion
Looks like MakerJuice has finally announced the availability of their direct wax castable resin.


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Pricing is very competitive at $95 for a 1 liter bottle.

I may pick some up for testing purposes. If anyone else gets it first, please post your results. I think the LittleRP settings should work fine for the Draken.

Ron

Comments

  • nicolasnicolas Member, Backers
    Hello rkundla,
    have tested this resin waxcast yet ?

    i am curious about his behaviour with the PDMS of the vat.

    i have som 3DM-wax and wax+ in house, do you know if someone has already tested it on the draken ?

    up to know, it seems that the B9 yellow do not affect the PDMS of my VAT, so i fear to damage my vat by using another resin.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I haven't picked it up yet @nicolas. I've been watching some people comment about it on the Reify3D Solus forum.

    They seem to think it works better if you mix it with some of the B9 Emerald resin to make it more stiff since the MJ resin is kind of flexible. It supposedly will change colors after is has been exposed to UV curing, so that helps show when it has been cured enough.

    The B9 is actually pretty gentle to the acrylic and the PDMS, unless you burn it into the PDMS surface on a failed print.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Well, I am fickle so I just ordered a 500 ml bottle to play with.  :D

    I'll let you know what settings I find work out on my Acer projector. I won't try it with the Vivitek since no one else here has tried to do the retrofit like me. 
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    My WaxCast arrived today, so I am using the LittleRP printer settings to see how it works with the resin calibration cube.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    First attempts have not turned out well, so I am continuing to experiment. I am collecting photos and data so I will share that with everyone once I get a good setup figured out.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Lots to say about printing with this resin.

    1. Needs a substantial raft/base layer to keep print stuck to build plate
    2. Requires a slow peel to prevent breakage during printing cycle
    3. Resin is 'sticky' due to solids content
    4. Cured resin is very brittle, kinda like wax prints from a solidscape printer

    I have some more prints going so hopefully I will get a good one shortly. ;-)
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Okay, here are some photos of my experience with MakerJuice WaxCast:

    Settings: Slot 2, 50um Z, 60000 base (x6), 10000 layer, slow tilting peel via modified firmware, flex vat prototype

    image

    I rinsed it twice with 91% isopropyl alcohol (no water pre-rinse) by placing the print in a strainer and funnel placed in a beaker and poured some alcohol over the model. I moved the funnel back to the waste bottle and poured it one more time. I then took the model and used compressed air to dry it. This process caused the white haze. It did remove all traces of liquid resin however. 

    I am currently testing the UV cure method. I am using my large 3Dfacture lamp, one print in the water filled beaker, the other in free air for one hour. I will post pictures shortly.

    Here is the example print I did where I used the fast standard peel versus the slow peel. See all the damage to the print? This resin is very brittle and doesn't like being handled roughly. It reminds me of how careful I needed to be with the Solidscape wax prints I'd get from Shapeways. That bodes well for burn out if it is due to the wax content that MakerJuice claims it has.

    image

    This was cleaned in 91% iso in a beaker in a ultrasonic for 280 seconds. That is too much since you can see the color is all bleached out. See how the rings all broke in the same place? Very curious, think it was peel related. Also the left side separated out early in the print due to my light imbalance from the Acer. I did order a new bulb, so I will see if that helps any.

    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here is a photo after curing both in water and in air.

    image

    The WaxCast will change color, well, more like lighten its color, after UV cure. The one on the left is more bleached out than the one on the right. When I cut the bases off the rings, the were still darker orange on the interior, so it will not cure all the way through, but it should be good enough for casting purposes.

    Next step is to try a test cast, but I am going to do some more tests with shrinkage. I tried to oversize the rings by 1.5% and 3% and they were 3/4 and 1 1/4 ring sizes greater than a US 8 (the model size). Now I am printing 100% and 98.5% to see where we end up. I am also trying to print at 9000 per layer instead of 10000 to see if there is any difference in surface quality, etc.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here is a test print from the LittleRP that gives you a good idea of the level of detail. All of the rods printed as well as the holes on top. The cuts are pretty sharp as well as the lettering on the flat and sloped surfaces. I did not check for accuracy as I was more concerned about the details.

    Same settings as above, 9000 ms layer exposure at 50 micron Z and slot 2.

    image
    Ron
  • nicolasnicolas Member, Backers
    Very interesting, 
    i keep an eye on your tests.
    thanks.
  • teopeleteopele Member, Backers
    cast, right this resin;
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Have you tried it yet @teopele or are you asking?

    I got some feedback from MakerJuice saying not to cure in water because there are water soluble components in the WaxCast. So only air exposure under UV.

    I made some ring models on Sunday and will be doing some casting this weekend to see how this works with my universal casting process I use with the B9 resin.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Alright, finally got around to doing some casting of the WaxCast in Sterling Silver. 

    Here are some of the photos and I will talk about what I saw in between them.

    These simple rings were cured for 2 hours in air under the large UV lamp. You cannot use water curing per Maker Juice due to some of the casting aids in the resin are water-soluble.


    image
    image


    I cast them using MakerJuice's recommended profile shown below.

    image
    and this is the result:


    image

    image


    Ugh, that doesn't look too good, so let's put it in the pickle and see what happens.


    image

    image


    Doesn't look much better. The print is a failure as far as I am concerned. Lots of surface damage and areas of pitting and such indicate issues with the resin decomposing completely.

    Let's look at some specific areas.


    image


    Pitting, spalling and discoloration indicate problems with the resin/investment interface breaking down during the burn out process.

    image


    It is pretty obvious along the shank of the ring the degradation of the investment no longer providing a smooth surface like the original model. Interesting to note that build lines are more noticeable when in the print surface, you cannot see those lines. Maybe an issue with the light color hiding surface details, or something to do with the 'water-soluble' additive they put into their resin?


    image


    Rough edge detail, poor small feature hole detail, these rings cannot be used without major renovation. Time to add them to the scrap pile and send them out to be refined.

    Conclusion:

    There is some concern I have using this resin based on the tips in their burn out document.


    image


    A water to powder ratio of 36:100 is pretty dense investment for Plasticast. I used a water to powder at 38:100 ratio and it was thick. I don't know if the more dense investment will really make a difference here.

    The one that got me was the oven ventilation comment. I use an electric kiln, so air movement is pretty restricted. I have a powered vent above the kiln, so it does draw fumes and such out of the kiln and the workspace. For burnouts using B9 or the 3Dfacture castable, I do not need to add supplemental air to have a good result. Maybe this works better with a gas kiln, but that won't work for me and the small scale casting I do.

    I tried a burn out where I used my B9 process that runs up to 1350°F max temperature versus the lower 1200°F that MakerJuice recommends, and the quality was a little better, but still not as good as what I can get from two more reliable resins. I think I am going to chalk this one up to experience and move on.

    If you are interested in purchasing some of this resin from me to try on your own without investing in a full bottle, let me know via PM and I will give you a quote!

    Ron
  • To me, it looks as though a longer burn at 1350 might help in your instance.  I'd also recommend a longer UV cure time and to heat the part some - up to 140-150F during the UV post-cure.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Thanks Shane, I will probably come back and give it another try when I have time. I really liked the sharp detail of the resin, just need to get it to cast properly. 

    Regarding UV, I only do it in open air now, no water per your comments on another forum. Is there a point where the resin has taken too much UV and the color gets more bleached out? Is there a breaking point that is detrimental to the burn out?

    Ron
  • rkundla said:

    Regarding UV, I only do it in open air now, no water per your comments on another forum. Is there a point where the resin has taken too much UV and the color gets more bleached out? Is there a breaking point that is detrimental to the burn out?
    IME you can't give it too much UV.  I normally let all of my prints sit overnight (~12 hrs) in a fingernail UV box with a cover on the front so it warms the part.  The yellower the resin gets during UV, the better IME.
  • teopeleteopele Member, Backers
    Ηι i have a big problem with the recin
    I have the 3dm-cast and it has a very beautiful and detailed result in printing but its no good in cast
    I would like to tell me what i can fix in order to have a good result with 3dm-cast
    Or wich retin to use to have the right foudry
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Teopele,

    I have no experience with the 3DM-cast product, so I cannot help you with that.

    I have been able to use B9 red/cherry mix and the yellow resin with a modified burnout and get pretty clean silver castings using Plasticast investment.

    If your foundry cannot accommodate the specialized burnout requirements, you can always have a mold made and have waxes made from the mold.

    Regards,
    Ron
    Ron
  • teopeleteopele Member, Backers
    Thank you for your prompt response. You have private message in your inbox
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