Hello, guys~ can someone help me to print of mine

Hello, I am debating to buy Draken printer.
I have used several printers in a company and now i am going to buy Draken for me. 
But I want to see some result with my file.
If someone can try and show me the picture of the result, It will be really good help for me. 

And I also want to know Draken's build size at minimum size (it is 37micron right?)  

Thank you very much :)

Comments

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    @Jayk if you send me a STL file, I can look into it for you. Send me a link to a dropbox or something in a PM and I will let you know if I can handle it. I do smaller more detailed prints on my Draken.

    Which dimension are you asking about? At the closest slot, the XY resolution is approximately 37 microns. The only issue with slot one is that you will more than likely need to remove the shutter, or reposition the servo assembly to clear the face of the projector. With a lens mod, you can use slot 2 and get the 35-37 micron XY.

    The finest step size (Z axis) I've used is 25 micron.
    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Okay, so I received the STL file from @jayk and thought about how to support this ring while printing.

    image


    I decided to use RhinoGold's support capability because I wanted to strategically place all of my supports around the outer edge of the band.


    image



    As a reminder, this is my configuration:

    - Vivitek 913HD with lens offset and +4 close up in slot 2
    - 3DFacture prototype flex vat
    - 3DFacture castable resin (12.5s base, 4.8s layer, 50 micron Z)


    Here are the results:

    image


    The print on the left was at my standard exposure times for the jewelry at 4.8 second per standard layer. What you can see is that the print tore during the peel or failed to adhere at some points. To me, that indicates that the cured resin was not strong enough to survive the print process, so the next attempt I bumped up the standard layer exposure by 2.0 seconds to ensure a solid cure. 

    The print on the right is with the 6.8 second exposure. It came out intact and the detail looks pretty good. It might be a little soft on the edges since I had an anti-aliasing value of 1.5 instead of 0, but the choice of resin and exposure time has a direct impact on the quality of the print. Getting razor sharp edges may be virtually impossible with the castable resin technology available right now, but all things considered, it looks pretty good to my casual eye.

    Hopefully this meets your expectations. Using the Acer or Viewsonic will potentially impact cure time and a standard FEP/PDMS vat versus the flex vat might require some tweaking, but it is certainly possible to print on the Draken. :-)

    Ron
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Here is a close-up shot of a portion of the complete ring:

    image


    You can see that there is some overcure of the resin, not sure if a combination of anti-aliasing and over exposure. I'd probably turn off the anti-alias and set the exposure from 6.8 to 6.0 and see what happens.

    It also appears I have some defects in the FEP because of some of the vertical lines, almost looks like a crease on the left side of the image.

    I could also try using 30um or 25um to help get rid of some of the layer lines, or at least make them smaller. This is a close-up though, so it will exaggerate any defects.
    Ron
  • JaykJayk Member, Backers
    Omg thank you! It looks fine :)
    Yah. Finally i decided
    Thank u for your help Ron.
    I can change model and setting to get perfect result. I think this look so good :)
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited December 2016
    Glad to help @jayk. Hopefully you will be happy with the Draken!
    Ron
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