Gravelle's Prints and Projects

Similar to Ron I'll use this thread to post pictures and videos of projects I work on and parts I print from here on out.  To kick it off I made a copper heart pendant for my wife for Valentine's day this year and compiled my efforts into a montage video showing the evolution of the project.  The video is on my Youtube channel and can be watched here:


I designed the pendant in Autodesk Fusion 360 and printed it in Autodesk Ember Clear Resin.  The print turnout nice even though there was a bit of over curing.  I then coated it with conducted paint and plated it with copper.  After plating it was filed, sanded, and polished to a high shine.  To keep from tarnishing a put a thin coat of varnish over it.  The wife loved, hope you guys get some enjoyment out of the video too! 

-Gravelle
Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.

Comments

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Nice video Samuel! What coating did you use for the conductive paint? I've never tried to electroform, but it seems like a good way to get something similar to a cast item with a lot less hassle!

    What are your thoughts on the Ember clear resin? What kind of settings did you use on your Draken to cure it?
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    I have a couple of different paints I use and I usually use at least two different paints just to make sure I have the entire surface coated.  Primarily I use MG chemicals spray conductive paints, the two I've been using have been the carbon and nickel spray paints.  I usually use the carbon for a base layer and the nickel for a top layer because it is significantly more conductive.

    I've been copper plating as a round about way to get metallic ish parts without casting (currently I don't have the tools to do castings).  A thin layer actually adds a surprising amount of strength to the normally brittle parts we get from resin.  Right now I'm working on a flex vat project by printing parts for the vat and copper plating them for strength. :)  

    I really like the Ember clear resin.  It gets just a very slight yellowish tinge to it but you have to have a pretty thick part for it to be noticeable.  I have also found that giving it a quick dip in polyacrylic finish makes the part very translucent and I've actually been able to print magnifying glasses with it.  I used up the last of my clear resin today but the next time I buy some I am definitely 3D printing some telescope lenses.  I plan to do a video review of it and get it onto Youtube in the next couple of weeks.  My only real complaint is that due to the translucency of the resin you do get a pretty good amount of overcuring with the part.  I have been able to limit it somewhat by making sure I only have a small amount of resin in the vat but it is still noticeable.

    I have used curing times of 7-11 seconds depending on where I have the part located in my print area (I've got pretty decent light uneveness from my projector :/ )  and those times are for 50um layers in Slot 7.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited March 23
    As promised I have completed my video review of the Autodesk Clear Resin and have it posted to my Youtube Channel.  Let me know what you guys think of the review.  I have the Autodesk Magenta resin in the mail and should be here sometime early next week.  I plan to do a full strength test and get a lot of different properties most people don't care about with that resin ;).

    Here is the review: 

    Hope you enjoy watching, remember to give the video a thumbs up so I show up in more search results ;).  Thanks!

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GaryGary Member, Backers
    Great video! Thanks!
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited April 8
    Working with the Autodesk Magenta resin.  Here are some pictures of a test rook printed with my own homemade flex vat.  The Magenta resin takes quite a bit longer to cure (30s vs 7-10s with the clear resin),  The prints turn out very nicely though!!!

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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Nice print! Looks pretty opaque compared to any of the MakerJuice colors that came with the printer.

    Anything special about cleaning or curing?
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Nothing special just rinsed in IPA and then in water, cured under UV lamp for about 10 min.  I have noticed that this resin is very heavily pigmented.  If I had more clear resin I'd probably try mixing it 50/50.
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited April 18
    I've got another video up, some of the build plate separation issues that @nicolas mentioned in another thread are addressed here.  I emphasize that even though I didn't need that many tools to do this it took quite a bit of patience to make it happen.  Super excited about this modification though.  I have yet to have a part separate from the build platform.  Let me know what you guys think or any modifications you've made to your printer to improve print success.



    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Here are some photos from my build platform mod

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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • nicolasnicolas Member, Backers
    Do you really need this special tool you made to separate the print from the build plateforme ?

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I'd just use the putty knife or one of those plastic blade scrapers with the removable blades. Also, the resins I use do not bond to the build plate like crazy glue.

    I dunno what would happen to MDF after it gets saturated with resin like that. I'd imagine it will swell up and cause all sorts of problems. :p
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    already thought of that. I coated the separating tool quite heavily in polyurethane so that shouldn't be an issue.

    The special tool isn't necessary but comes in handy when it's a part with a large raft.
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Well I modified my projector again.  And this time I was able to decrease me resin cure times down to 1/3 of what they were originally.  I did this by removing the UV filter from the front of the halogen lamp assembly.  It turned out pretty good.   I will have to reduce the brightness settings a little because I am starting to get some background curing now but all in all I'm getting alot faster printing and the modification honestly takes about 5 minutes.

    And of course I made a tutorial video:

    Let me know what you think.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • Joseph_OsbornJoseph_Osborn Member, Backers
    Everything I've ever read about DLP projectors says that removing that filter will lead to a rapid death for the DLP chip. Good luck.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Yeah I had read that this modification takes the life of your projector into your own hands as well.  At cure times 1/3 normal, even if the life of the projector is cut in half it's still a net gain.  I added the extra cooling fans specifically to combat the issue of all the extra heat.  So far I have had 5hr prints on it with no issues except background curing.  Any issue will be passed along for the general knowledge of all.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    1/3 the time is a nice improvement. What resin and what were the before and after times for comparison?

    If you can't get the heat out, you will shatter interior lenses. If you can cut glass, get your hands on what they call a hot mirror and cut it to replace your old filter glass. It reflects IR and passes all other wavelengths. That way it keeps the heat out of the light tunnel and protects the other lenses and such. 

    The UV will kill the DMD a little quicker, but I don't know if anyone can really say how much quicker. The one thing I read was that the grease<?> in the micro-mirror joints will start to breakdown, causing stuck pixels and other artifacts.
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    The exhaust air from the printer is very warm and the projector body stays pretty cool.  I may add a peltier element to the printer body to make sure the internals stay cool.  I have been using Autodesk Magenta Resin and originally had to use a cure time of 30 sec at 86um xy resolution, now it is down to 11sec at the same resolution.  Though I have had background exposure issues so I have to turn down the brightness and gamma settings which will probably bring up my cure times a handful of seconds.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Decided against the Peltier unit for the moment and shopped around for a UV pass filter to try and get all the superfluous wavelengths attenuated.  I found what looks like a perfect fit for our applications and it was less than $25.  It should get here in about a week.


    From what I could find online, the DMD chip in the Acer projector isn't suppose to be exposed to more than about 1 mW/cm^2 of light energy less than 385nm.  With the filter above I should still be getting about 80% transmission in that wavelength so we'll see how the DMD holds up.  The filter should keep the internals cooler though and help improve longevity in that respect.  Since the projector puts out so much more UV light now I will probably try running it in ECO mode to save some lamp life as well.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I will be very interested in how that works. Almost all visible light will be blocked, so how that will look at the vat will be very interesting.

    I wish there was a spectographic reading of the lamp in these projectors to get an idea of just how much non-visible light energy is emitted.
    Ron
  • Andrew_3DfactureAndrew_3Dfacture Member, Moderator, Backers
    Interesting idea.  We are thinking of making one with 395nm UV LED for a large printer.   The current 405nm resin all have shrinkage issue, thus force us to consider 395nm resin.  Heating would be a big issue.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Honestly I think the DMD chips resilience to UV light will be the most limiting factor.  The DMD chips that TI designs for UV applications are in the $3000-$4000 range.  And all the ones for visible light state in the data sheets that <1mW/cm^2 light below 385nm should be used with the chip.  LEDs at 395nm are pretty close to that and probably still generate light at and below that wavelength....  TI still owns a lot of patents on DLP technology.  It will be nice to see what the market does with this technology once the patents run out.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Finally got the video finished for the UV pass filter installation.


    I couldn't be more satisfied with the way this turned out.  My cure times are now 16sec as opposed to the 11sec I was getting without any filters for the halogen lamp.  Still about 50% what they were with the original hot mirror filter installed.  I haven't had the chance to do alot of measurements yet but it seems like my light distribution has improved too.  The left side of my vat always seemed to get less exposure but now it's getting more than everywhere else.  I've printed pillar features down to 0.5mm with no problems and have had no overcuring or background exposure(this is on 50um layers and 86um x-y resolution).  Though I have reduced the gamma setting one of the least brightest levels and put the projector in Eco mode which I'm sure is accounting for most of the additional 5sec of cure time.  

    We'll see how the DMD chip holds up, I am now filtering almost all light above 430nm and below 370nm.  The datasheet on the DMD chip says not to expose to UV light below 385nm so since I'm now operating very close to that limit we'll see how it holds up.  I am optimistic since I'm so close to this limit and there is probably some safety factor built into that spec.  I've done about 40hrs of printing with this modification and haven't encountered any issues.  

    Also since my gamma setting is so low now I haven't had any background exposure and don't need to engage the lens cover servo between layers.  It literally feels like I'm printing lightning fast!!!

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited July 23
    Great video and what a good mod! 

    It is easy enough to do and it doesn't require you to open up the projector body other than if you were replacing the light bulb.

    I like the purple glow. I should look into picking up some of that filter glass to see how it works.

    Putting two of them together to fill the original depth would have more issues than just extra attenuation I think. There could be some issues of refraction that might cause the light to separate funny. Not 100% sure, but it usually isn't recommended.
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Thanks Ron, I've been very satisfied.  I think you're right about stacking the filters though.  Probably would get some really weird refraction properties.

    Here are some picks of some of the torture testing I've been doing on resolution printing.  These were all printed at 86um xy resolution and 50um z resolution.  Enjoy!

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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • Andrew_3DfactureAndrew_3Dfacture Member, Moderator, Backers
    edited August 1
    Wow...that's very fine details!
    What happens beyond 0.5mm?   The wire will break during peel off? 
    We used to try "continuous" printing for extremely fine lattice structure like this - the structure will become flexible like a sponge.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    @Andrew_3Dfacture , When I reduced the cross member diameter to 0.25mm it failed to print.  My suspicion is that the cross members were too long to be free standing at such a small diameter.  I will try and scale the entire object by 50% to half the lengths of the cross members and try again.  I can upload the files to thingiverse if you guys are interested in printing the lattice structure.

    Lately I have been working on getting the info together to do a tutorial on actually creating a grayscale mask to even out the light distribution and being able to cheaply measure light intensity.  I've found a very good solution which is to use a photoresistor with a multimeter.  Below is a peak into my results.  The first image is the raw, unmasked output with the UV pass filter installed and no color wheel.  The second is the masked output.  Both images were measured at 35 different points across the projection area at 84um x-y resolution  The standard deviation between light intensities was cut in half after creating the mask.  The mask was created with the Java software I developed to interpolate grayscale images.  Let me know what you think, thanks!
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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    How does it work then when printing over the entire projection area? That is the real test of whether your mask works properly.
    Ron
  • Andrew_3DfactureAndrew_3Dfacture Member, Moderator, Backers
    Very interesting and impressive!   How long does it take to measure light intensity of 35 points and input into your java software?      

    The java software will output a greyscale mask file that can uploaded into printing software for printing?
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