Gravelle's Prints and Projects

Similar to Ron I'll use this thread to post pictures and videos of projects I work on and parts I print from here on out.  To kick it off I made a copper heart pendant for my wife for Valentine's day this year and compiled my efforts into a montage video showing the evolution of the project.  The video is on my Youtube channel and can be watched here:


I designed the pendant in Autodesk Fusion 360 and printed it in Autodesk Ember Clear Resin.  The print turnout nice even though there was a bit of over curing.  I then coated it with conducted paint and plated it with copper.  After plating it was filed, sanded, and polished to a high shine.  To keep from tarnishing a put a thin coat of varnish over it.  The wife loved, hope you guys get some enjoyment out of the video too! 

-Gravelle
Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.

Comments

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Nice video Samuel! What coating did you use for the conductive paint? I've never tried to electroform, but it seems like a good way to get something similar to a cast item with a lot less hassle!

    What are your thoughts on the Ember clear resin? What kind of settings did you use on your Draken to cure it?
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    I have a couple of different paints I use and I usually use at least two different paints just to make sure I have the entire surface coated.  Primarily I use MG chemicals spray conductive paints, the two I've been using have been the carbon and nickel spray paints.  I usually use the carbon for a base layer and the nickel for a top layer because it is significantly more conductive.

    I've been copper plating as a round about way to get metallic ish parts without casting (currently I don't have the tools to do castings).  A thin layer actually adds a surprising amount of strength to the normally brittle parts we get from resin.  Right now I'm working on a flex vat project by printing parts for the vat and copper plating them for strength. :)  

    I really like the Ember clear resin.  It gets just a very slight yellowish tinge to it but you have to have a pretty thick part for it to be noticeable.  I have also found that giving it a quick dip in polyacrylic finish makes the part very translucent and I've actually been able to print magnifying glasses with it.  I used up the last of my clear resin today but the next time I buy some I am definitely 3D printing some telescope lenses.  I plan to do a video review of it and get it onto Youtube in the next couple of weeks.  My only real complaint is that due to the translucency of the resin you do get a pretty good amount of overcuring with the part.  I have been able to limit it somewhat by making sure I only have a small amount of resin in the vat but it is still noticeable.

    I have used curing times of 7-11 seconds depending on where I have the part located in my print area (I've got pretty decent light uneveness from my projector :/ )  and those times are for 50um layers in Slot 7.

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited March 23
    As promised I have completed my video review of the Autodesk Clear Resin and have it posted to my Youtube Channel.  Let me know what you guys think of the review.  I have the Autodesk Magenta resin in the mail and should be here sometime early next week.  I plan to do a full strength test and get a lot of different properties most people don't care about with that resin ;).

    Here is the review: 

    Hope you enjoy watching, remember to give the video a thumbs up so I show up in more search results ;).  Thanks!

    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GaryGary Member, Backers
    Great video! Thanks!
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited April 8
    Working with the Autodesk Magenta resin.  Here are some pictures of a test rook printed with my own homemade flex vat.  The Magenta resin takes quite a bit longer to cure (30s vs 7-10s with the clear resin),  The prints turn out very nicely though!!!

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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    Nice print! Looks pretty opaque compared to any of the MakerJuice colors that came with the printer.

    Anything special about cleaning or curing?
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Nothing special just rinsed in IPA and then in water, cured under UV lamp for about 10 min.  I have noticed that this resin is very heavily pigmented.  If I had more clear resin I'd probably try mixing it 50/50.
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    edited April 18
    I've got another video up, some of the build plate separation issues that @nicolas mentioned in another thread are addressed here.  I emphasize that even though I didn't need that many tools to do this it took quite a bit of patience to make it happen.  Super excited about this modification though.  I have yet to have a part separate from the build platform.  Let me know what you guys think or any modifications you've made to your printer to improve print success.



    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    Here are some photos from my build platform mod

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    -Gravelle
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
  • nicolasnicolas Member, Backers
    Do you really need this special tool you made to separate the print from the build plateforme ?

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    I'd just use the putty knife or one of those plastic blade scrapers with the removable blades. Also, the resins I use do not bond to the build plate like crazy glue.

    I dunno what would happen to MDF after it gets saturated with resin like that. I'd imagine it will swell up and cause all sorts of problems. :p
    Ron
  • GravelleGravelle Member, Backers
    already thought of that. I coated the separating tool quite heavily in polyurethane so that shouldn't be an issue.

    The special tool isn't necessary but comes in handy when it's a part with a large raft.
    Check out my Youtube channel Garage Science for videos and tutorials about printing with the Draken.
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