Starting to Print again!

ericeric Member, Backers
Hey everyone I am about to get my Draken back up and running after not using it for a few months and I was hopeing the community could help me with a few things

1.)  Can someone share the gcode modifications for slowing down the tilt mechanism so it reduces the peeling forces 

2.) Ive seen mention of new firmware for the draken, can someone explain to me what the improvements are and some information regarding
how to get the new firmware flashed onto my draken? 

3.) just a general question, what is everyone's favorite resin for general printing? I have only used Makerjuice SF black with success.
Im looking to compile a pdf of exposure settings for as many resins as I can to share with the community 

Comments

  • rkundlarkundla Member, Moderator, Backers, Ultimate Backer
    edited May 6
    Do you want the firmware version or just the gcode block? If you search for slow peel in the forum, you should find my gcode block that you can copy into your gcode in CW.

    I posted a whole thread on how to use my (somewhat) easier method for uploading firmware. It is only Windows-based so if you have Mac or Linux it is significantly more difficult. Again, it should be self-explanatory and assumes some knowledge of how Windows COM ports work.

    I've focused exclusively on castable resin, so for general printing, I only used the MakerJuice SF. Worked fine when I used it but I haven't tried to print with it for over a year. (Doh! I use the G+ since that is what came with the printer. I haven't tried the SF yet...)


    Ron
  • AD001AD001 Member, Backers
    edited May 6
    To answer 3), I use makerjuice SF and G+ primarily. White for most quick jobs (3-5 seconds per layer is great... this is at MAXIMUM build volume, too!), red or yellow for most things requiring detail. For more or less any use, the yellow and red are also great and fast. They're the best balance between detail and speed that I've found, and have almost all of the detail you'll find in darker pigments- the biggest difference I've found is with the Z-axis light bleed. For ultra detail, dark is the way to go. For everything but that, red/yellow.

    Don't underestimate white, though. You can build FAST with it and for larger prints, the level of detail sacrificed can absolutely be worth it.

    Shameless plug for this spreadsheet created/curated by RKlunda and myself:
  • GaryGary Member, Backers
    SF Yellow is my goto general purpose resin. I don't seem to get the speeds that others do (I have the viewsonic projector) Slot 3 with 7 to 8 second layers @50um are very dependable.
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