rkundla

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rkundla
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  • Gary
    Hey ron :)

    What's your verdict on a qsil vat with no FEP?

    Seems like a no brainer as compared to $90 a pop VAT replacements.

    FEP sucks. Always has.  :)

    Gary
    November 2015
    • rkundla
      rkundla
      Gary,

      As long as your acrylic is in good shape and not too messed up from aggressive resin, I think it works fine. It worked pretty good until I had a batch of prints that got stuck to the PDMS which clouded it up. I think it would have still gone for a while before it stopped working properly. If you can only find a way to reverse the clouding...

      I don't mind the film for the up close projector settings. I only put enough FEP to cover the projector point, so I don't have to try to muck with getting it down perfect across the whole area. I don't like the FEP because it is too difficult to peel off that backing plastic without stretching it or adding wrinkles due to excessive lift/place on the PDMS.

      You are right it is a cheaper solution to recoat. I wonder if 3DFacture is thinking about putting out a recoat kit?

      Ron
  • razor
    Hi Rkundla,

    I saw you have experience in lost wax casting. Your results are beautiful! 

    I have a few questions, hope you can help me :-)

    1) What is the difference for lost wax casting between B9 resin and B9 cherry resin for the casting and the casted results?
    2) Do you always use the same resin for lost wax casting? If yes, which resin or mix (and mix ratio?)?
    3) Do you have experience with lost wax casting with small aluminium parts? (for industrial/mechanical purposes for instance). 
    4) I would like to use my Draken printer for lost wax casting especially for aluminium parts. Do you have advice or tips for me?

    Thanks in advance.
    Kind regards,

    Lennart van den Doel
    The Netherlands - Europe
    November 2015
    • rkundla
      rkundla
      Hi Lennart!

      Sorry, I just saw your message since it didn't come through the private message section.

      I haven't been able to print pure cherry resin because the projector is not powerful enough and the peel is touchy because of the viscosity of the resin.

      I print a mix of red and cherry to get more pigment which provides more detail. The current mix I am using is 3:1 red/cherry. I will probably move to 2:1 in order to increase the detail. I have used CastSolid resin to do a print and the results were okay, but in my test not as good of fine detail like the b9 resin.

      The only lost wax I have experience with is in precious metals and small sizes around 20^2 mm max.

      If you would use investment like Plasticast from R&R, follow the directions and burn out the b9 resin to their schedule, you should be able to get good quality castings. You do need to make sure that the resin print is fully cured. Any uncured resin during the burn out will damage the investment and ruin the surface quality. The b9 forum recommends a mixture of UV and heat curing (either in microwave in water or in a kiln/oven).

      For more specific information, you may need to search online for others experience with casting aluminum and any additional steps to help get a good casting.

      Regards,
      Ron
  • Andrew_3Dfacture
    Ron, it seems that there is 10 days delay to go with fedex while DHL is $30 more expensive but could pick/ship tomorrow (we can cover the additional shipping for you). Accordingly to your schedule, which one you prefer?
    July 2015